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Peru Travel Guide - Step-By-Step on the Lares Trek

Day 1: 10km, Huaran (2800m) to Cancha Cancha (3800m)

Our introduction to the jaw-dropping scenery of Peru's Sacred Valley began long before we started our expedition along the Lares trek. Just getting to base camp entailed a drive up through winding mountain roads, passing a string of Inca ruins and rustic villages where we stopped for bread and other provisions in preparation for our four day hike deep into the wilderness of the Peruvian Andes.

We'd only been hiking a few minutes before a steady drizzle started to fall, forcing us to stop and unpack our waterproofs from the mules. "Rain down here means snow up there," said Luis, our guide, who pointed up the distant valley with a wry grin.

From the tiny settlement of Huaran we immediately began the steep, one thousand meter climb that would continue all day until we arrived at our first camp. Following a trail that hugged the edges of a fast-flowing river we entered a long, steep corridor of cloud forest leading up to the glacial peaks of Cancha Casa and Chicon that dominated the valley head.

Insisting that we keep a slow, steady pace, Luis began to share some of his vast knowledge of the area, pointing out the darting hummingbirds, explaining the symbiotic partnership between the bromeliads and their tree hosts and revealing the medicinal properties of the various plant life that lined our trail.

As we ascended the steep trail we could see the environment altering around us; flowering plants became less frequent, the trees became ever smaller until they resembled dwarfed stumps and the climate began to change, the wind picked up and a sharp chill entered the air.

But before we reached the tree-line itself it was time to break for some lunch. Meals during a Peru trekking tour are a logistical miracle, with a caravan of porters and mules racing ahead to set up kitchen and have a hot meal ready and waiting for the group's arrival.

We replenished ourselves on a high energy lunch of steaming soup, sandwiches, fruit and cake before loading up again to continue the ascent until eventually emerging from the tree-line and out onto the rocky no-mans land between cloud forest and glacier, under the shadow of the snow-capped mountains ahead.

We traversed this landscape for four steady hours until the trail led us into the miniscule village of Cancha Cancha, a settlement typical to this area of high Peruvian altiplano where llama and alpaca herding is the main occupation and braving the biting cold is a way of life. 

The local children ran out to meet us as we entered the village, while the weary herds of animals showed more caution. Despite still being early, around 5pm, the sun had already disappeared behind the mountains and the evening cold had set in. It was here that our earlier shopping for all those famous Peruvian souvenirs; wooly hats, gloves and ponchos, proved its worth.

Before dinner was served, Luis pointed yet further up to the highest, snow-covered point of the mountain pass. "That's where we're heading tomorrow," he declared. "As far and as high as you can see, in that direction!"

After an enormous meal of spicy soup, chicken, vegetables and mashed potato, our group sat in the dining tent, huddled for warmth with a cup of rum in hand, to listen to Luis's descriptions of the folklore associated with the surrounding mountain ranges and later, explanations of the star constellations shining vividly overhead.

But the night was too cold for star gazing and by 9pm we were all in our tents, inside the sleeping bags and cozily wrapped up from the harsh elements of the altiplano.

Day 2: 15km, Cancha Cancha (3800m) to Quishuarani (3700m)

We started the following day in luxury, having been woken at 5:30am with coffee and a bowl of hot water brought to our tent by our tireless porters. After filling up on breakfast and loading the mules we began the steady climb towards the first mountain pass of the trek.

As we rose towards the peaks we passed by a handful of youngsters, out keeping watch over herds of llamas and alpacas, before leaving all traces of civilization behind us. Up here there was nothing but Andean geese, a large native mountain bird called the Cara Cara, and oversized, stone-colored rabbits, the Viscacha, to keep us company.

As we hit the snow-line our trail took us past a series of large, natural caves in the mountain side. Luis explained that this spot is from where his spiritual ancestors were said to have originated, emerging from the cave carrying maize seeds, water and coca leaves, signifying the most important aspects of life in this region.

Finally reaching the highest point of the Pachacutec pass at 4700m, we were rewarded with stunning views across two valley systems, while far below us lay a set of dazzling turquoise lakes. It was up here that Luis stopped to make a ceremonial offering to the mountain gods, the apus, lighting a small fire to burn incense, sweets, coca leaves and other important gifts which would help ensure our smooth passage through the mountains.

After skirting around the mountain peak we began the steady thousand meter descent back below the snow-line and towards our second camp, stopping again for a large lunch before arriving after a full 8 hours hiking in the small settlement of Quishuarani.

Quishuarani was a slightly larger settlement than the previous night's camp and we were treated to such luxuries as cold beer and chocolate from the village store. As on the previous night, the local youngsters were fascinated with their strange-looking visitors and we spent a couple of hours handing out gifts of coloring books and pencils to the younger kids, while learning a few musical tricks from the older ones, expert players of an Andean ten-stringed instrument called the charango.

Our second camp was also blessed with a small shelter, constructed by the local reserve authority to encourage more visitors to the area, which offered us a warmer environment to eat dinner and share a few mugs of rum with our vivacious guide and a few local villagers.

"Right! I'm going to teach you one of our Andean games!" Luis roared across the table, signaling the start of a long, happy night of dice games and rum drinking that lasted into the small hours.

Day 3: 20km, Quishuarani (3700m) to Lares Hot Springs (3100m)

After our late night we emerged the following morning with startlingly clear heads - perhaps a benefit of the fresh mountain air. "Everyone needs to fill up with a good breakfast," Luis instructed, "and take plenty of water too. We've got a big day ahead of us."

It was good advice: from Quishuarani we made the most demanding hike of the trip, tackling an incredibly steep incline that took us up to Hullquicasa which, at 4400m above sea level, was the second big mountain pass of our trek.

We were back above the snowline here, although the sun and the sheer physical exertion had everyone sweating buckets. In fact, we were concentrating so hard on getting up the mountainside, we almost missed the astonishing landscape we'd just walked into.

"Now look behind you," Luis coolly suggested as we clambered, spluttering and wheezing, to the highest point of the pass. The view was almost unbelievable, as though we'd walked into a painting: the mountain fell away from us into a long, wide and grassy valley, dotted with brilliant blue lakes that reflected the skies like shimmering mirrors. Semi-wild horses, ancient stone buildings and small herds of llamas dotted the foreground, while in the distance was a never ending range of jagged mountains and snow-topped peaks.

This was a perfect spot to catch our breath and replenish ourselves on some high-energy snacks. But our smug self-congratulations for having made it up such an impossible climb were shattered by the arrival of an elderly lady, a local to the area, who was virtually running up the trail, a baby wrapped up on her back and a toddler pattering along beside her.  

"Napaykullayki!" she called over, the regional Quechua greeting, shooting us a toothy grin as she raced past and down the other side, quickly becoming a small, colorful dot in the landscape.

Shamed into action, we clambered back onto our feet and began the descent down into the next valley. The trail passed dozens of small, perfectly calm lagoons and a swift river that eventually turned into a sequence of increasingly impressive waterfalls. Along the sides of the valleys were wide screes of boulders and rocks that had fallen from the mountain sides and now provided an ideal home for bounding families of the Viscacha rabbits who were entirely oblivious to us as we walked by.

Stopping for a short break next to one of these lagoons, the peace was disturbed by a suddenly animated Luis, breaking his cool for a rare, excited moment to point out the enormous condor circling above our heads.

The condor, the largest flying bird in the Americas, is a creature of immense spiritual and symbolic importance to the indigenous people of the Andes, as Luis' reaction made clear. "That is a sign of real luck, my friends!" He beamed at us. "The condor isn't so common in this range, but the mountains have certainly blessed us today!"

After stopping for lunch at the river-side village of Cuncani, we continued along the downward trail, following the river towards the Lares valley itself. During the wet season, this onward journey is usually split across two days, but thanks to the dry conditions we were able to continue walking for much longer.

After Cuncani the trail returned us to the tree-line and re-entered the more humid and milder climate and ecosystem of the Andean tropical forest. The path snaked through farmland and rustic agricultural settlements before dropping again, into the more settled and tamed environment of the Lares valley.

Before long, the river had become a gushing torrent, fuelled by the glacial waters running through the valley which itself had become increasingly lush, the trees grew taller, the undergrowth thicker, and the sounds of birdsong returned to the breeze.

Eventually, rounding a corner along the valley's edge we were presented with the most welcome sight in days: our camp, already set up by our outstanding team of porters, situated directly next to the series of therapeutic hot springs that make the village of Lares famous.

This was luxury in the true sense of the word and as we stripped out of our mud-clad trekking gear and into the hot showers and pools to rest our weary muscles, it was hard to suppress our grins of absolute contentment.

Day 4: 8km, Lares Hot Springs (3100m) to Inca Ruins

Having completed an extra stretch of hiking the following day, our final day on the trek was a much more relaxed affair, starting with another dip in the springs before making the gentle walk away from Lares along farmland towards some nearby Inca ruins.

The easy trail was a good chance to rest our legs after the demands of the previous few days, as well as catch a glimpse of rural life in the Andean pueblos that we were passing. Occasionally we came across snapshots of times gone by, a paved trail created during the days of the Inca, or a cliff-side cemetery where the bodies of nobles were buried, along with rich offerings to the same mountain gods to which Luis had prayed.

The trail eventually led us to a small village which marked the end of our trek. Here we reacquainted ourselves with the modern world (crossing a road was a novelty, the sound of a car was startling,) unloaded the mules and gave our deep and sincere thanks, along with a healthy tip, to the porters who had worked so hard to make our experience such a memorable one.

Luis stayed with us for the road journey back to Ollantaytambo, a town which had seemed so tiny five days ago, but which felt like a buzzing metropolis when we returned. Here, all that was left was to shake Luis' hand, thank him for being such an outstanding guide, and catch the train for our much anticipated Machu Picchu tours, the final piece and pinnacle of our Sacred Valley adventure. 

How Best To Enjoy Your Peru Trekking Experience:

While planning for Peru vacations, consider that operators for Peru tours and treks abound, but the quality and levels of service can be highly inconsistent. For the best standards in safety and comfort, do your research before you leave and check the online reviews for international providers of Peru vacation packages.

The Inca Trail is by far the most popular route, but the Lares trek is just one of many less-busy alternatives, including the long and spectacular Salcantay trek, or the much shorter Chacan trek.

When packing for your Peru trek, make sure to bring the following essentials:

- Waterproofs, both for yourself and for your daypack,

- Educational or healthy gifts for the kids you're bound to meet on the way,

- Suitable water bottles or canteens for the drinking water that is usually provided,

- A head torch to keep things well lit up and your hands free,

- Plenty of good quality, warm layers that you can add and remove as the temperatures swing from very warm to freezing cold,

- A good quality, all-seasons sleeping bag and a sleeping bag liner, both of which can be hired in Cusco.

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Best Places to Fish in Alaska

The sheer size and varying landscape of Alaska offers many different places to schedule your Alaskan Fishing Trip. You can try your luck fishing the high seas for Halibut, fly-in to a remote location for fly-fishing, or even just bait fish at a fishing hole outside of Anchorage. However, some areas cannot be compared to anywhere else in the world for the amount and size of their fish. Here are four of the best places to fish in Alaska.

Kenai River

The size and amount of fish in the Kenai river is simply outstanding. The river is on the Kenai Peninsula and runs 132 miles from Kenai Lake before it empties into the Cook Inlet. There are two runs of king, silver, silver, and red salmon each summer and a run of pink salmon every other year. This is one of the only places where you can guarantee that the river is going to be full of running salmon itching for a fight. There aren't just a lot of fish, there's big fish too. The world record king salmon, weighing in at 97 pounds, was caught in the Kenai River in 1985. However, all these fish also attract lots of other fisherman and you might end up bumping elbows with some of them. If you want a more isolated experience, come here in the fall when you can stalk the river by yourself for monster rainbow trout.

Bristol Bay

Bristol bay is 250 miles long and 180 miles wide, sandwiched between mainland Alaska and the Alaskan Peninsula. This place, with several rivers and streams entering into it, is home to the largest salmon run in the world. You can catch chum, silver, and king salmon, but most everyone comes to Bristol Bay for the legendary sockeye salmon fishing. Bristol Bay is the largest fishery for the tasty sockeye in the world. If your arms end up getting tired from fighting enormous salmon all day, try fishing the many streams in the area for rainbows, arctic char, and grayling.

Kodiak Island

Kodiak Island, home to the legendary bear, is 100 miles long and between 10 and 60 miles wide. The Karluk River, as well as several other streams on the island, has great fishing for both trout and salmon. However, the main attraction of Kodiak Island is the road system, which allows people to navigate the backcountry for the perfect secluded fishing hole, which in most cases is only a few feet from the main road.

Copper River

The 300 miles of the Copper River make for some of the best salmon fishing in Alaska. During the summer months, over 2 million salmon navigate these waters to find their spawning grounds.

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Knives: Spyderco,Kershaw,Mora,Colt,Victorinox

weekend's job :) various knives...you are going to see: Spyderco Delica,Byrd Cara Cara,Kershaw ET,Leatherman Skeletool,Colt and Mora knives

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Leatherman Skeletool Introduction

The Leatherman Skeletool CX is a full size yet ultra light multi tool with knife blade, pliers, wire cutters, and screwdrivers.

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The Leatherman Surge Multi Tool

This is the Leatherman Surge retailed at $89.99 It's a very useful knife. It has a very nice reputation and it's one of Leatherman's best multi-tools according to Leatherman and myself. I have alot of prior knowledge with Leatherman Multi-Tools and this is among the best. I love the durability, rust-proof , stainless steel handles, exchangable bits and saw/file, and the nice nylon sheath with the option of a leather sheath. All around I would give this Leatherman multi-tool a 9 out of 10. I love this knife for just about every kind of use. There are, however, a few negative things about this multi-tool (the key word is few) IE It is very heavy, weighing in at 12.6 Oz with the sheath (nylon) and 11.7 Oz without the sheath. Another small negative comment about the Leatherman Surge is the size, the sheath, witch is close to the size of the multi-tool, is 3 inches across and 5 1/2 inches tall. I bought this knife for $82.00 at Al's ArmyNavy Store on French Ave. in Sanford Florida.

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Two Common Nailing Tools - Hammer and Staple Gun

Hammers
A hammer should always be used for knocking in nails. The steel of a hammer head is specially heat treated to make the striking face hard enough to stop being damaged when it strikes a nail but not so hard that it becomes brittle and liable to shatter.

There are many different kinds of hammer. Some are designed for particular purposes such as bricklaying, panel-beating, stonework and upholstery. The two most common general-purpose hammers are designed for woodworking.

The curved claw hammer is designed for general-purpose woodworking and carpentry. The most common size is 16oz though 20 and 24oz hammers are also available. (The weight refers to the weight of the head.) Its weight makes it a quick, though tiring, tool to use and it is particularly useful for driving in long nails. It also has a hardened claw which is invaluable for pulling out nails and pins. The handles of curved claw hammers may be ash, glass fibre, hickory or steel. Glass fibre and steel-handled hammers usually have rubber hand grips.

The cross-pein (Warrington or joiners) hammer was designed for joinery and cabinet making. Standard sizes are 4, 6, 10, 12, 14 and 16oz. The smallest size is sometimes called a pin or tack hammer. The hardened cross pein (the tapered wedge end) is for starting small pins and tacks and for finishing off nails in awkwardly shaped mouldings. For metal-working, an engineer's hammer has a lounded ball pein.

Staple guns
For many jobs - particularly upholstery, fixing fibre ceiling tiles and securing underfelt - a staple gun will be more convenient than a hammer.

A staple gun fires hardened two-pronged staples into the work: these look a bit like the staples used to hold paper together but are larger and tougher. Special staples are available for particular jobs such as ceiling tiles and for securing panel clips for cladding.

Staple guns can be used in one hand and have cither a lever or, if electrically powered, a trigger. Other uses include picture framing, roof insulation, roller blinds, polythene sheeting and fencing. Special attachments are available for some of these jobs.

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Multi Tool Comparison

This is a comparison of a few of my multi tools as well as a few thoughts on their function.

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Chain Saw Cutting Problems

Chain saws are wonderful tools when they are cutting properly. Most people know that when a chain saw gets dull it does not cut very easily, and in fact can become quite dangerous. But, there are a number of other problems that can cause your chain saw to cut poorly. Most of these issues can be traced back to improper sharpening procedures or poor maintenance.

When you're cutting with your chain saw, if it cuts crooked or at an angle this is generally an indication that the teeth have been improperly filed. Either they were filed at the wrong angle, or every tooth was not filed the same amount and with the same pressure. If filing is not the cause of a chainsaw pulling to one side or the other, then it could be the bar or the sprocket at the far end of the bar are in poor condition and need maintenance or straightening.

If you have a newly sharpened chain saw and it dulls quickly, usually this is caused by thin cutting edges resulting from too much file pressure or low angle when sharpening your chain saw. Your chainsaw will need to be refiled using less pressure, as well as lowering the angle of attack and checking the height of the depth gauges.

If the chain grabs and cuts rough the saw sharpener probably induced a forward hook on the teeth as a result of too much pressure from the top of the file. A good indication that the depth gauges are set incorrectly is when the chain digs too far into the wood. You will need to lower the height of the depth gauges in most cases. If you detect overheating of the chain you may not have enough bar oil, or the saw sharpener created a backslope on the teeth during the last sharpening.

Drive link problems on the chain can result in severe problems like the chain jumping off the bar. Incorrect chain tension can cause this, and you may have to replace bent drive links on your chain. Also, excessive chain chatter can be caused by improper sprocket fit, and result in front or back peened drive links.

Whenever you identify these kinds of cutting problems with your chain saw you should immediately remove the bar and chain from the saw and inspect carefully. There are usually only a couple of nuts to remove the chain and separate the bar from the saw. This will allow you to inspect the parts for dangerous defects and keep your saw in good condition.

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Husqvarna Chainsaw Prices - How To Find The Right Chainsaw

Price is a big consideration when purchasing a chainsaw. Spending a small fortune on a saw and then letting it sit in your tool shed without using it is a little extravagant. Many will obviously look towards the main brands such as Husqvarna and Stihl to purchase their saws.

This article is intended for first time or home users and we'll use chainsaw giant Husqvarna as a guide to purchasing the right sized machine for your needs. The following Husqvarna chainsaw prices should only be regarded as a guide.

Small Chainsaws

For upwards of $200, a homeowner can purchase a good quality saw which will perform most of the tough jobs around the house. For example, the Husqvarna 137 is an ideal saw for part time users. It is extremely easy to start with enhanced safety features such as a double acting chain brake.

For a couple of hundred bucks, this is the type of machine a part time user should consider. Husqvarna chainsaw prices are pretty hard to compete with but it will pay to scan some of the forestry forums and ask whether there are cheaper priced options available.

Electric Chainsaws

These are a great alternative to the gas-powered models because of their lightweight and low noise factor. This makes them particularly ideal in major cities or suburban areas.

You'll obviously be restricted by freedom of movement because of the power chord attached to the machine but for jobs such as pruning and trimming, these make more economical sense.

Gas And Electric

Alternatively, if you live on a large block of land, either suburban or country, why not consider having the best of both worlds. Many chainsaw owners have both gas and electric machines which gives them plenty of options. For example, if wet weather is hampering the use of your electric chainsaw, then the gas-powered model can be used.

Price consideration becomes a factor here because Husqvarna chainsaw prices can be a little pricey in the electric range. This is a good time to consider the alternatives. Brands such as Craftsman, McCulloch and Remington offer some excellent alternatives for $60 and above.

The main drawback with the cheaper models when comparing them to brands such as Husqvarna is you'll be missing some of the components associated with the gas versions however, by following good safety protocol, this shouldn't be a reason for not buying.

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10 Power Tool Safety Tips

Power tools are indispensable for professionals and those who tackle DIY home improvement jobs. They are favored as they help users to save time and they also make the job easier. However, they need to be handled carefully otherwise they can lead to injury. Mishaps usually occur due to negligence, boredom, and overconfidence. By keeping the following 10 safety issues in mind, it is possible to work satisfactorily and safely with power tools.

1. Safety glasses: These prevent dust, debris, wood shavings, shards from fiberglass, etc from getting into the eyes. Safety glasses are one of the most basic pieces of safety equipment that must be used when working with power tools.

2. Protection for the ears: Power tools can generate a lot of noise, which may sound louder in the cloistered environment of a workshop; in order to minimize damage to the ears, it is advisable to wear earplugs.

3. Knowing the right tools for the job: It is important to know the right tools for the job in order to avoid injury to oneself and damage to the materials. To this end, it is advisable to thoroughly read the instruction manuals provided with the equipment and get familiar with the recommended safety precautions.

4. Correct method of using tools: Tools should not be carried by their cords; tools that are not in use should be disconnected; and while handling a tool connected to a power source, fingers should be kept away from the on/off switch.

5. The right clothes: Long hair should be tied and loose clothing should be avoided. Ideally, clothing that covers the entire body should be worn and heavy gloves should be used in order to avoid sharp implements and splinters from hurting the hands. Masks prevent inhalation of harmful minute particles of the material that is being worked upon. Steel-toed work boots and hard hats can also be worn.

6. Tool inspection: Power tools should not be employed in wet environments and should never be dipped in water; they should be checked periodically for exposed wiring, damaged plugs, and loose plug pins. Nicked cords can be taped but if a cut appears to be deep, a cord should be replaced. Tools that are damaged or those that sound and feel different when used should be checked and repaired.

7. Cleanliness in the work area: This should be maintained because accumulated dust particles in the air can ignite with a spark. Of course, flammable liquids should be kept covered and away from the place where power tools are being used. An uncluttered work area also makes it easy to maneuver the power tool; often distractions caused by a tangled cord can result in an accident.

8. Care with particular tools: Miter saws and table saws should be used with a quick-release clamp and a wood push-through, respectively. Extra care should be taken while using nail guns and power belt sanders.

9. Keep tools in place: Power tools should be returned to their cabinets after use to prevent them from being used by an unauthorized and incapable person.

10. Lighting: It is important to use proper lighting while working with power tools, particularly when working in the basement and garage where lighting may not be satisfactory.

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Corian Glue

Du Pont is one scientist that we should all be proud of. In the 1960s, he invented the artificial Corian glue. The glue consists of natural stones, 2/3 parts of white clay/aluminum trihydrate (AL(OH)3), methylacrylate and some edible pigments. Methylacrylate provides the stickiness of the glue. Earlier, the natural stones were quiet expensive. They symbolized a state of honor. The artificial glue was cheap. Its popularity thus spread.

When using the Corian glue, the surface of the material must be well polished. The glue is then poured on the surface. It should be spread evenly and made smooth. It is better to cover the article being fixed. The glue will later harden after some time.

The advantages of Corian glue are wide and many. It does not need to to be colored externally. This is because it can be made using different colors and textures. It can be polished using sand paper. Thus, when scratched, it can look new after being polished. It is impermeable to water. It can therefore be used on the counter tops of bathrooms and kitchens.

It can be used on the counter tops of bars, banks, reception desks and swimming pools. It is impermeable to both water and germs. It is therefore very hygienic. It is used in hospitals, surgery rooms and clinics. It can be used for advertising signs that are placed outside. The glue is long lasting. Though artificial, the glue allows the articles to have the beauty of natural stones. Some people use the glue for the decoration of rooms and other parts of the house.

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Stihl Chainsaw Prices - The Truth About Stihl Chainsaw Prices

Price is a big consideration when purchasing a chainsaw especially for a first time or part-time user. Stihl chainsaw prices may scare a few non-professionals off but that's only because they are looking at the wrong models. One of the biggest mistakes newcomers make is to head for the heavy duty section and look at the biggest and most powerful machines on the market. Why? If you are intending to use it spasmodically then why not consider heading to the other end of the spectrum and looking at the smaller machines.

For use around the home, the smaller machines are extremely effective in fact, don't let size put you off. For example, Stihl's new MS 192 C-E model is ideal for the work-at-homer. It features the advanced easy-to-start system and is comfortable for just about anyone to operate.

Comparing Stihl chainsaw prices - at around $300, the MS 192 is ideally priced for someone not really hell bent on making a living with a chainsaw. Compare $300 to over $1500 for the top of the line models and you can quickly get a guage on the difference between between the lightweight and heavyweight models.

Stihl Electric Chainsaws

One of the best pieces of advice a newcomer can get is to compare the electric chainsaws against the noisier, more expensive gas-powered models. The ideal situation is have have both electric and gas-powered but consider how much use you are going to put your new saw to and you may find an electric model under $100 may just be the ticket.

Don't worry though, while these electric models may be priced low, they have the necessary capability to perform well on minor jobs around the house. If you're comparing Stihl chainsaw prices, then buying a Stihl electric is stepping up a level again. While you'll be parting with anything up to four times the price you would for an electric saw at one of the main department stores, the Stihl models such as the MSE 220 are loaded with extra features.

What you need to decide is it could be more cost effective to purchase a good gas-powered model for the price you would outlay to buy the top electric model on the market.

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Chain Saw Sharpeners For Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

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Types of Welding Joints

When you are learning how to weld, you first need to learn the types of welding joints there are. There are 5 basic welding joints that you will learn here today. The main reason you must learn these joints is because if you are on a big job and you have to read the blueprints you will need to know the symbols and the name of the weld joint to be able to locate the part that needs a weld on it. I'm not going to get in blueprints here but just the 5 basic welding joints.

The 5 weld joints are named Butt joint, Corner joint, Edge joint, Lap joint and Tee joint. The first one named Butt joint is a joint that is between two members lying approximately in the same plane. The second one named Corner joint has two members located at right angles to each other in a from of an angle, mostly 90 degrees. The third one named Edge joint is a joint between the edges of two or more parallel members. Fourth one is a Lap joint, that has two overlapping members to form the joint. And the last one is the Tee joint, it looks just like it is called because it forms a "T".

When you produce weldments, it is necessary to combine joint types with weld types to produce weld joints. And they will produce a name like, fillet welds, plug or slot welds, spot or projection welds, seam welds and the list goes on and on. It all comes from the 5 basic joints to be able to understand the rest. Lots of learning and reading. So there you have it, the 5 basic weld joints. Hope you like my article and I look forward to you reading my other articles. See you then.

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New Knife/Tool

Leatherman skeletool

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How to Sharpen Your Chain Saw

To keep a chain saw sharp, you must sharpen it often. This is not as difficult as it sounds - all you need are a few simple tools and some practice. There are really only 2 steps to sharpening your chain saw. First, you need to file or grind the teeth on the chain to a razor sharp edge, and second you need to adjust the height of the depth guides that regulate the amount of wood taken by each cut.

You can imagine the teeth on the chain as small wood chisels, each one taking a small sliver of wood from the cut, every second tooth cutting from the opposite side. If each tooth takes a consistent amount of wood, at the same angle, and with same amount of effort or force from the saw, then we will get a nice clean cut with a minimum of struggle. When the chain saw doesn't pull to either side and the saw cuts through the wood like butter you know you have a well sharpened chain saw.

When you're learning how to sharpen your chainsaw it's a good idea to tighten the chain so there is very little slack. This will keep the teeth straight and make it easier to maintain a consistent angle when stroking with the round file. You should still be able to move the chain around the bar in a snug fashion. Just remember to loosen the chain before using it again.

Pay attention to the cross angle of the teeth, as well as the upward tilt angle of the sharpened edge. Line up your round file so that it follows the existing angles on the teeth. Gently stroke the file towards the tooth's point (away from the saw body). Watch the guide carefully so you can keep a consistent angle. Always count the number of strokes on each tooth - usually 5 or 6 strokes is enough. Then move on to the next tooth on the chain and stroke 5 or 6 times at the very same angle.

Repeat this pattern for all of the teeth that point in the same direction (every second tooth). Then flip the file guide around and repeat the process for every other alternating tooth pointing to the other side of the saw. Remember, it's very important that every tooth is sharpened the same amount or the saw will pull to one side when you try to cut.

After several sharpenings you will have worn the teeth down slightly. The depth gauges must be filed down so they are no higher than the tops of the teeth on the chain saw. Many people don't know about this step, but if you don't maintain the correct height of the depth guides your chain saw will not cut properly.

All you do is set the depth guide on the chain straddling the teeth and a small notch on the guide will allow you to remove the correct amount from each gauge. Filing the depth gauges is easier than sharpening the teeth because you're only trying to set the height of the depth gauges, not actually sharpen them.

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Chain Saw Sharpeners For Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

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My Multi Tools - Leatherman Micra and Skeletool

A quick look at my multi tools I use when hiking. The Leatherman Micra and Skeletool.

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Leatherman Skeletool CX

Leatherman Skeletool CX

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Leatherman Skeletool demo video

New product from famous Leatherman company : Skeletool Weights only 140 gr !!! I'm selling such tools on ebay.co.uk worldwide Contact me if interested !

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How to Sharpen Your Chain Saw

To keep a chain saw sharp, you must sharpen it often. This is not as difficult as it sounds - all you need are a few simple tools and some practice. There are really only 2 steps to sharpening your chain saw. First, you need to file or grind the teeth on the chain to a razor sharp edge, and second you need to adjust the height of the depth guides that regulate the amount of wood taken by each cut.

You can imagine the teeth on the chain as small wood chisels, each one taking a small sliver of wood from the cut, every second tooth cutting from the opposite side. If each tooth takes a consistent amount of wood, at the same angle, and with same amount of effort or force from the saw, then we will get a nice clean cut with a minimum of struggle. When the chain saw doesn't pull to either side and the saw cuts through the wood like butter you know you have a well sharpened chain saw.

When you're learning how to sharpen your chainsaw it's a good idea to tighten the chain so there is very little slack. This will keep the teeth straight and make it easier to maintain a consistent angle when stroking with the round file. You should still be able to move the chain around the bar in a snug fashion. Just remember to loosen the chain before using it again.

Pay attention to the cross angle of the teeth, as well as the upward tilt angle of the sharpened edge. Line up your round file so that it follows the existing angles on the teeth. Gently stroke the file towards the tooth's point (away from the saw body). Watch the guide carefully so you can keep a consistent angle. Always count the number of strokes on each tooth - usually 5 or 6 strokes is enough. Then move on to the next tooth on the chain and stroke 5 or 6 times at the very same angle.

Repeat this pattern for all of the teeth that point in the same direction (every second tooth). Then flip the file guide around and repeat the process for every other alternating tooth pointing to the other side of the saw. Remember, it's very important that every tooth is sharpened the same amount or the saw will pull to one side when you try to cut.

After several sharpenings you will have worn the teeth down slightly. The depth gauges must be filed down so they are no higher than the tops of the teeth on the chain saw. Many people don't know about this step, but if you don't maintain the correct height of the depth guides your chain saw will not cut properly.

All you do is set the depth guide on the chain straddling the teeth and a small notch on the guide will allow you to remove the correct amount from each gauge. Filing the depth gauges is easier than sharpening the teeth because you're only trying to set the height of the depth gauges, not actually sharpen them.

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Eli and His Skeletool

Eli got a Leatherman Skeletool from Ski (his god-father) for his birthday. Ski got an identical one for himself & had both of their "zap codes" engraved on the blades. He is a Marine msgt in Iraq and hasn't received his yet so Eli made a video showing him how it works.

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spydieguys Uses FLITZ Polish

Polishing a dirty Spyderco EDC with FLITZ metal polish, and a quick look at a few items on the spydieguys web site. (spydieguys Vol. XXVIII 11122009.)

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Leatherman Charge Ti

Leatherman Charge Ti

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10 Power Tool Safety Tips

Power tools are indispensable for professionals and those who tackle DIY home improvement jobs. They are favored as they help users to save time and they also make the job easier. However, they need to be handled carefully otherwise they can lead to injury. Mishaps usually occur due to negligence, boredom, and overconfidence. By keeping the following 10 safety issues in mind, it is possible to work satisfactorily and safely with power tools.

1. Safety glasses: These prevent dust, debris, wood shavings, shards from fiberglass, etc from getting into the eyes. Safety glasses are one of the most basic pieces of safety equipment that must be used when working with power tools.

2. Protection for the ears: Power tools can generate a lot of noise, which may sound louder in the cloistered environment of a workshop; in order to minimize damage to the ears, it is advisable to wear earplugs.

3. Knowing the right tools for the job: It is important to know the right tools for the job in order to avoid injury to oneself and damage to the materials. To this end, it is advisable to thoroughly read the instruction manuals provided with the equipment and get familiar with the recommended safety precautions.

4. Correct method of using tools: Tools should not be carried by their cords; tools that are not in use should be disconnected; and while handling a tool connected to a power source, fingers should be kept away from the on/off switch.

5. The right clothes: Long hair should be tied and loose clothing should be avoided. Ideally, clothing that covers the entire body should be worn and heavy gloves should be used in order to avoid sharp implements and splinters from hurting the hands. Masks prevent inhalation of harmful minute particles of the material that is being worked upon. Steel-toed work boots and hard hats can also be worn.

6. Tool inspection: Power tools should not be employed in wet environments and should never be dipped in water; they should be checked periodically for exposed wiring, damaged plugs, and loose plug pins. Nicked cords can be taped but if a cut appears to be deep, a cord should be replaced. Tools that are damaged or those that sound and feel different when used should be checked and repaired.

7. Cleanliness in the work area: This should be maintained because accumulated dust particles in the air can ignite with a spark. Of course, flammable liquids should be kept covered and away from the place where power tools are being used. An uncluttered work area also makes it easy to maneuver the power tool; often distractions caused by a tangled cord can result in an accident.

8. Care with particular tools: Miter saws and table saws should be used with a quick-release clamp and a wood push-through, respectively. Extra care should be taken while using nail guns and power belt sanders.

9. Keep tools in place: Power tools should be returned to their cabinets after use to prevent them from being used by an unauthorized and incapable person.

10. Lighting: It is important to use proper lighting while working with power tools, particularly when working in the basement and garage where lighting may not be satisfactory.

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Leatherman Comparison Part2

Leatherman Comparison Part2

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11 Tips for Air Compressor Maintenance

Now that you've invested in an air compressor to run all of your air tools you're going to have to learn how to keep it up and running. Because the standard handyman's air compressors don't typically require daily upkeep, it's easy to forget about them and neglect their upkeep. This can be a costly oversight so it's vital for you to keep an eye on the following maintenance tips.

Maintenance Tip 1: Read and Follow Your Air Compressor's Manual

Nothing stops an air compressor faster than an owner who doesn't read the owner's manual. There's going to be some simple tips in there for you that will help you to get a nice long life out of your air compressor - simple stuff for you to do that you would never have thought to do unless you read it. Plus, if you don't follow the rules in your air compressor manual there's a chance that you'll void your warranty. That in itself should be enough of an incentive to read the "flipping" manual.

Maintenance Tip 2: Drain The Moisture From The Tanks

The receiver tank collects moisture from the air that it's compressing - especially if you live in a humid climate. Most tanks have a valve for draining this moisture that accumulates and it's up to you to make sure that these are drained regularly. Before draining the water you should be sure to release the air pressure from the tanks.

Maintenance Tip 3: Clean Intake Vents

If you force your air compressor to work too hard to intake air you're losing power on your compression. This will gradually degrade the quality of your tool. Be sure to keep your intake vent as clean as possible and check them regularly especially if you're working in a dusty or dirty environment.

Maintenance Tip 4: Tighten All Fasteners

Your air compressor's a running, vibrating engine and it will loosen its screws, nuts and bolts on a regular basis. Be sure to check these periodically and tighten them up if you find any that have jiggled loose.

Maintenance Tip 5: Check Hoses Regularly

Check all your hoses periodically as they are the veins of your air compressor. If they become cracked or corroded they could soon begin to leak and then put undue strain on the rest of your compressor's components. Be sure to check them and replace them if you find them cracked or damaged.

Maintenance Tip 6: Test the Safety Shutdown System

Your air compressor may have a built in safety shut down. The function of this system is to shut off your compressor if it's getting too hot, or if the engine's oil pressure is too low. This test will help you ensure a longer lasting compressor.

Maintenance Tip 7: Check and Change Air Filters As Needed

A filthy air filter is only hurting your air compressor by allowing dirty air from the outside in, plus forcing it to work harder to intake air. Check your filters regularly and change them if you notice a heavy build up of dust and dirt. Change every six months or so if you use it infrequently.

Maintenance Tip 8: Clean the Fuel Tank

As with any engine you need to periodically clean out the fuel tank to ensure optimal operating conditions. You should look to clean out the engine on your air compressor once every year or so to remove any residual build up from the fuel. This will preserve the life of your engine.

Maintenance Tip 9: Check and Change the Compressor Oil

If you're running a compressor that uses oil you should be checking it on a daily basis to make sure that your machine is topped off. Then, every 500-1000 hours of use you should be changing this oil to ensure maximum functioning of your air compressor.

Maintenance Tip 10: Change the Separator Element

The separator element prevents the excessive use of oil, but it has to be replace periodically. Keep your compressor in top condition by replacing the separator element every 1,000 hours of operation.

Maintenance Tip 11: Clean the Heat Exchangers

If your heat exchangers are dirty then they can't do their job, which is to reduce the operating temperatures of your air compressor. Clean them regularly to keep your operating temperatures down and increase the life span of your air compressor.

By following the tips above you'll ensure a nice long life for your air compressor, plus the jobs that you use it for will go faster and more productively. A well maintained air compressor is a wonderful machine for any job site or workshop, so keep yours running smoothly.

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Leatherman Skeletool demo video

New product from famous Leatherman company : Skeletool Weights only 140 gr !!! I'm selling such tools on ebay.co.uk worldwide Contact me if interested !

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Poulan Chainsaws - An Honest Review

Reviewing chainsaws is not an easy task given the team-like following these powerful machines have got.

The Poulan chainsaws range have generally been around the mark when reviews are posted but toppling big names such as Stihl and Husqvarna from their perches is not an easy thing to do.

The plus for Poulan fans is they are actually owned by Husqvarna and it's said they share technologies. On the downside though, this may have impacted the prominence of Poulan as a major player in the chainsaw market.

Poulan probably haven't done themselves many favors when one scans the reviews on some of their chainsaws online. Yes, they produce excellent tools for the handyman and tradesman however, have they "dropped the ball a little" on some of the saws?

Some Reviews Too Harsh?

I tend to think some of the reviews are a little harsh. As we mentioned earlier, chainsaw brands have their band of loyal followers and it's a little like motor cars; until your manufacturer produces something totally unreliable then it's going to take a lot to get someone to switch brands.

The beauty about Poulan chainsaws is you are not "paying and arm and a leg" for them. That's probably not a good description to make given what a chainsaw can do but the truth is, they are hard to beat for value.

Value For Money Products

In a society where more and more new chainsaw owners are being born daily with the homeowner boom, Poulan have come to the party with machines designed to suit novice users looking for a lightweight design chainsaw which packs plenty of power.

A homeowner, unlike a pro or semi pro won't be using their machine on a regular basis so spending a fortune on a chainsaw doesn't make sense.

Spending between $100-$200 for a chainsaw which can handle lightweight to medium tasks is good shopping in anyone's language. The only question then is whether one can get satisfactory back-up support when needed. This is always a major issue when buying chainsaws and is drummed home regularly to first-time users.

It remains to be seen how competitive Poulan chainsaws remain in today's market but if you're looking for a value saw, then it's a good starting place.

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Elmer's Glue

The first white glue to be used was made and marketed by Borden. It was in the form of glass bottles having the wooden sticks used in ice creams. It had the trade name "Cascorez Glue". It was later renamed as Elmer's Glue. The company has been manufacturing different glues since 1947. It created a name for itself from these glues. Its headquarters are located in Columbus Ohio. Its products are found in many countries.

The manufacturers of Elmer's glue make glues for household and commercial basis. Glue sticks and glue bottles can be used at home. Glue sticks consist of a solid material that can be dragged on the area you want it to be. Glue bottles are made to allow application on the right place. The bottle type is stronger than the sticks. They are used by children for craft work. The company also makes colors for drawing.

For commercial use, the company makes wood glue. This is useful in repairing furniture. The ultimate glues are useful when a strong bond is needed. The ultimate glues are washable. The nano glues can also be used for strong bonds. The floor adhesive is useful for attaching floor tiles. The adhesive is water resistant and does not decompose.

Aerosol adhesives are also manufactured by the company that makes Elmer's glue. This type can be sprayed on walls and furniture and even plastics. The adhesive dries very fast. It is filled into containers under high pressures. This allows it to be sprayed over a large distance. It has sufficient strength that allows items to be fixed on foam boards. The glues are environmentally safe.

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Review: Leatherman Skeletool CX

A review of the Carbon Fiber Skeletool CX multitool by Leatherman. This is my Every Day Carry (EDC) knife/multitool.

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First Look Leatherman Skeletool

The Leatherman Skeletool from www.swissknifeshop.com is lightweight, compact, and a handy tool.

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A List of Basic Hand Tools For Setting Up Shop

Below I recommend several brands of tools. These are tools I own and have a lot of experience with or have used in the past and like. This doesn't mean that these brands are the only ones out there or are even the best. Ask around and find out what other people like and use. Ultimately you have to make your own decision on which tools are best for you and how you work.

Woodworking covers so many facets that it's difficult to come up with a tool list that covers the needs of every woodworker. Many tools are used for a very specific task, while others are more general tools that you find yourself using for most projects. The latter is what I'll concentrate on in this article. Just keep in mind that if you want to learn how to make guitars (a Luther), or build a canoe, etc...there will definitely be tools that you will need that won't be on this list. This is just to get you started. I've been working wood for over 10 years and trust me there are still many tools I would love to have. But just like I did you start with the basics and buy other tools as you find a need for them.

Hand Tools

Machine tools: screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, set to wrenches, pliers, crescent wrench. These are things that most already have around the house, but it definitely doesn't hurt to have a set of these tools that are dedicated just to your shop so you don't have to hunt all over the house when you need a Phillips screwdriver. These can all be picked up at your local hardware store.

Set of bench chisels: 1/4" to 1". I've used a set of Marples chisels for years. Irwin has bought them so they may show up under their name now. The full set costs around $50.00 Cheaper chisels just won't hold an edge (meaning they dull too easily). The Marple chisels hold an edge OK. Home Depot and Lowes used to carry them but they're not showing up on their websites now. Amazon.com has them for $50

Handplanes: A jack plane (sometimes referred to as a No. 5) and a low angle block plane. The jack plane gets it's name from being the "jack of all trades". It's a medium size plane and can be used for many tasks. I recommend buying a used one, specifically an old Stanley No. 5. Look at flea markets and garage sells or try eBay (this is where I got mine years ago). A block plane will be one of the most used tools in your shop, so buy a good one. If you can afford it Lie-Nielsen.com or Lee Valley.com both have excellent low angle blocks from $75 to $119 A cheaper alternative would be a Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block for around $40.

Handsaws: panel, or Japanese Ryoba and Dozuki. Western saws cut on the push stroke; Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke. My advice is to try out both and see which you like better. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Personally, I like the Japanese saws for most jobs, but I still like a western type saw for cutting dovetails. Lowes and Home Depot both carry Japanese saws. Another good place to look is Japanwoodworker.com

Layout tools:tape measure, small and large size try squares, marking gauge, pencil compass, 6" and 12" rulers, bevel gauge, combination square.

Hammer: 16oz standard and a wooden or dead-blowstyle mallet for working with chisels and other tools.

Card scraper: an inexpensive tool that is indispensable in the shop (especially if you dislike sanding). These tools can take extremely thin shavings of wood and leave a very smooth surface. They can be tricky to sharpen though. We'll cover scrapers more in depth in a future article.

Rasps: a coarse and fine cabinetmaker's style. These are used to shape wood especially table legs.

There's my list of basic hand tools to get you started. Some, you will need from the very beginning. Some you can wait on. My advice is to figure out what you want to make with your woodworking and then start building. You'll figure out quickly the tools you really need and the ones you can wait to get.

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