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Stihl Chainsaw Prices - The Truth About Stihl Chainsaw Prices

Price is a big consideration when purchasing a chainsaw especially for a first time or part-time user. Stihl chainsaw prices may scare a few non-professionals off but that's only because they are looking at the wrong models. One of the biggest mistakes newcomers make is to head for the heavy duty section and look at the biggest and most powerful machines on the market. Why? If you are intending to use it spasmodically then why not consider heading to the other end of the spectrum and looking at the smaller machines.

For use around the home, the smaller machines are extremely effective in fact, don't let size put you off. For example, Stihl's new MS 192 C-E model is ideal for the work-at-homer. It features the advanced easy-to-start system and is comfortable for just about anyone to operate.

Comparing Stihl chainsaw prices - at around $300, the MS 192 is ideally priced for someone not really hell bent on making a living with a chainsaw. Compare $300 to over $1500 for the top of the line models and you can quickly get a guage on the difference between between the lightweight and heavyweight models.

Stihl Electric Chainsaws

One of the best pieces of advice a newcomer can get is to compare the electric chainsaws against the noisier, more expensive gas-powered models. The ideal situation is have have both electric and gas-powered but consider how much use you are going to put your new saw to and you may find an electric model under $100 may just be the ticket.

Don't worry though, while these electric models may be priced low, they have the necessary capability to perform well on minor jobs around the house. If you're comparing Stihl chainsaw prices, then buying a Stihl electric is stepping up a level again. While you'll be parting with anything up to four times the price you would for an electric saw at one of the main department stores, the Stihl models such as the MSE 220 are loaded with extra features.

What you need to decide is it could be more cost effective to purchase a good gas-powered model for the price you would outlay to buy the top electric model on the market.

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Chain Saw Sharpeners For Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

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Types of Welding Joints

When you are learning how to weld, you first need to learn the types of welding joints there are. There are 5 basic welding joints that you will learn here today. The main reason you must learn these joints is because if you are on a big job and you have to read the blueprints you will need to know the symbols and the name of the weld joint to be able to locate the part that needs a weld on it. I'm not going to get in blueprints here but just the 5 basic welding joints.

The 5 weld joints are named Butt joint, Corner joint, Edge joint, Lap joint and Tee joint. The first one named Butt joint is a joint that is between two members lying approximately in the same plane. The second one named Corner joint has two members located at right angles to each other in a from of an angle, mostly 90 degrees. The third one named Edge joint is a joint between the edges of two or more parallel members. Fourth one is a Lap joint, that has two overlapping members to form the joint. And the last one is the Tee joint, it looks just like it is called because it forms a "T".

When you produce weldments, it is necessary to combine joint types with weld types to produce weld joints. And they will produce a name like, fillet welds, plug or slot welds, spot or projection welds, seam welds and the list goes on and on. It all comes from the 5 basic joints to be able to understand the rest. Lots of learning and reading. So there you have it, the 5 basic weld joints. Hope you like my article and I look forward to you reading my other articles. See you then.

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How to Sharpen Your Chain Saw

To keep a chain saw sharp, you must sharpen it often. This is not as difficult as it sounds - all you need are a few simple tools and some practice. There are really only 2 steps to sharpening your chain saw. First, you need to file or grind the teeth on the chain to a razor sharp edge, and second you need to adjust the height of the depth guides that regulate the amount of wood taken by each cut.

You can imagine the teeth on the chain as small wood chisels, each one taking a small sliver of wood from the cut, every second tooth cutting from the opposite side. If each tooth takes a consistent amount of wood, at the same angle, and with same amount of effort or force from the saw, then we will get a nice clean cut with a minimum of struggle. When the chain saw doesn't pull to either side and the saw cuts through the wood like butter you know you have a well sharpened chain saw.

When you're learning how to sharpen your chainsaw it's a good idea to tighten the chain so there is very little slack. This will keep the teeth straight and make it easier to maintain a consistent angle when stroking with the round file. You should still be able to move the chain around the bar in a snug fashion. Just remember to loosen the chain before using it again.

Pay attention to the cross angle of the teeth, as well as the upward tilt angle of the sharpened edge. Line up your round file so that it follows the existing angles on the teeth. Gently stroke the file towards the tooth's point (away from the saw body). Watch the guide carefully so you can keep a consistent angle. Always count the number of strokes on each tooth - usually 5 or 6 strokes is enough. Then move on to the next tooth on the chain and stroke 5 or 6 times at the very same angle.

Repeat this pattern for all of the teeth that point in the same direction (every second tooth). Then flip the file guide around and repeat the process for every other alternating tooth pointing to the other side of the saw. Remember, it's very important that every tooth is sharpened the same amount or the saw will pull to one side when you try to cut.

After several sharpenings you will have worn the teeth down slightly. The depth gauges must be filed down so they are no higher than the tops of the teeth on the chain saw. Many people don't know about this step, but if you don't maintain the correct height of the depth guides your chain saw will not cut properly.

All you do is set the depth guide on the chain straddling the teeth and a small notch on the guide will allow you to remove the correct amount from each gauge. Filing the depth gauges is easier than sharpening the teeth because you're only trying to set the height of the depth gauges, not actually sharpen them.

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Chain Saw Sharpeners For Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

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