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Stihl Chainsaw Prices - The Truth About Stihl Chainsaw Prices

Price is a big consideration when purchasing a chainsaw especially for a first time or part-time user. Stihl chainsaw prices may scare a few non-professionals off but that's only because they are looking at the wrong models. One of the biggest mistakes newcomers make is to head for the heavy duty section and look at the biggest and most powerful machines on the market. Why? If you are intending to use it spasmodically then why not consider heading to the other end of the spectrum and looking at the smaller machines.

For use around the home, the smaller machines are extremely effective in fact, don't let size put you off. For example, Stihl's new MS 192 C-E model is ideal for the work-at-homer. It features the advanced easy-to-start system and is comfortable for just about anyone to operate.

Comparing Stihl chainsaw prices - at around $300, the MS 192 is ideally priced for someone not really hell bent on making a living with a chainsaw. Compare $300 to over $1500 for the top of the line models and you can quickly get a guage on the difference between between the lightweight and heavyweight models.

Stihl Electric Chainsaws

One of the best pieces of advice a newcomer can get is to compare the electric chainsaws against the noisier, more expensive gas-powered models. The ideal situation is have have both electric and gas-powered but consider how much use you are going to put your new saw to and you may find an electric model under $100 may just be the ticket.

Don't worry though, while these electric models may be priced low, they have the necessary capability to perform well on minor jobs around the house. If you're comparing Stihl chainsaw prices, then buying a Stihl electric is stepping up a level again. While you'll be parting with anything up to four times the price you would for an electric saw at one of the main department stores, the Stihl models such as the MSE 220 are loaded with extra features.

What you need to decide is it could be more cost effective to purchase a good gas-powered model for the price you would outlay to buy the top electric model on the market.

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Chain Saw Sharpeners For Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

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Types of Welding Joints

When you are learning how to weld, you first need to learn the types of welding joints there are. There are 5 basic welding joints that you will learn here today. The main reason you must learn these joints is because if you are on a big job and you have to read the blueprints you will need to know the symbols and the name of the weld joint to be able to locate the part that needs a weld on it. I'm not going to get in blueprints here but just the 5 basic welding joints.

The 5 weld joints are named Butt joint, Corner joint, Edge joint, Lap joint and Tee joint. The first one named Butt joint is a joint that is between two members lying approximately in the same plane. The second one named Corner joint has two members located at right angles to each other in a from of an angle, mostly 90 degrees. The third one named Edge joint is a joint between the edges of two or more parallel members. Fourth one is a Lap joint, that has two overlapping members to form the joint. And the last one is the Tee joint, it looks just like it is called because it forms a "T".

When you produce weldments, it is necessary to combine joint types with weld types to produce weld joints. And they will produce a name like, fillet welds, plug or slot welds, spot or projection welds, seam welds and the list goes on and on. It all comes from the 5 basic joints to be able to understand the rest. Lots of learning and reading. So there you have it, the 5 basic weld joints. Hope you like my article and I look forward to you reading my other articles. See you then.

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New Knife/Tool

Leatherman skeletool

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How to Sharpen Your Chain Saw

To keep a chain saw sharp, you must sharpen it often. This is not as difficult as it sounds - all you need are a few simple tools and some practice. There are really only 2 steps to sharpening your chain saw. First, you need to file or grind the teeth on the chain to a razor sharp edge, and second you need to adjust the height of the depth guides that regulate the amount of wood taken by each cut.

You can imagine the teeth on the chain as small wood chisels, each one taking a small sliver of wood from the cut, every second tooth cutting from the opposite side. If each tooth takes a consistent amount of wood, at the same angle, and with same amount of effort or force from the saw, then we will get a nice clean cut with a minimum of struggle. When the chain saw doesn't pull to either side and the saw cuts through the wood like butter you know you have a well sharpened chain saw.

When you're learning how to sharpen your chainsaw it's a good idea to tighten the chain so there is very little slack. This will keep the teeth straight and make it easier to maintain a consistent angle when stroking with the round file. You should still be able to move the chain around the bar in a snug fashion. Just remember to loosen the chain before using it again.

Pay attention to the cross angle of the teeth, as well as the upward tilt angle of the sharpened edge. Line up your round file so that it follows the existing angles on the teeth. Gently stroke the file towards the tooth's point (away from the saw body). Watch the guide carefully so you can keep a consistent angle. Always count the number of strokes on each tooth - usually 5 or 6 strokes is enough. Then move on to the next tooth on the chain and stroke 5 or 6 times at the very same angle.

Repeat this pattern for all of the teeth that point in the same direction (every second tooth). Then flip the file guide around and repeat the process for every other alternating tooth pointing to the other side of the saw. Remember, it's very important that every tooth is sharpened the same amount or the saw will pull to one side when you try to cut.

After several sharpenings you will have worn the teeth down slightly. The depth gauges must be filed down so they are no higher than the tops of the teeth on the chain saw. Many people don't know about this step, but if you don't maintain the correct height of the depth guides your chain saw will not cut properly.

All you do is set the depth guide on the chain straddling the teeth and a small notch on the guide will allow you to remove the correct amount from each gauge. Filing the depth gauges is easier than sharpening the teeth because you're only trying to set the height of the depth gauges, not actually sharpen them.

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Chain Saw Sharpeners For Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

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My Multi Tools - Leatherman Micra and Skeletool

A quick look at my multi tools I use when hiking. The Leatherman Micra and Skeletool.

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Leatherman Skeletool CX

Leatherman Skeletool CX

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Leatherman Skeletool demo video

New product from famous Leatherman company : Skeletool Weights only 140 gr !!! I'm selling such tools on ebay.co.uk worldwide Contact me if interested !

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How to Sharpen Your Chain Saw

To keep a chain saw sharp, you must sharpen it often. This is not as difficult as it sounds - all you need are a few simple tools and some practice. There are really only 2 steps to sharpening your chain saw. First, you need to file or grind the teeth on the chain to a razor sharp edge, and second you need to adjust the height of the depth guides that regulate the amount of wood taken by each cut.

You can imagine the teeth on the chain as small wood chisels, each one taking a small sliver of wood from the cut, every second tooth cutting from the opposite side. If each tooth takes a consistent amount of wood, at the same angle, and with same amount of effort or force from the saw, then we will get a nice clean cut with a minimum of struggle. When the chain saw doesn't pull to either side and the saw cuts through the wood like butter you know you have a well sharpened chain saw.

When you're learning how to sharpen your chainsaw it's a good idea to tighten the chain so there is very little slack. This will keep the teeth straight and make it easier to maintain a consistent angle when stroking with the round file. You should still be able to move the chain around the bar in a snug fashion. Just remember to loosen the chain before using it again.

Pay attention to the cross angle of the teeth, as well as the upward tilt angle of the sharpened edge. Line up your round file so that it follows the existing angles on the teeth. Gently stroke the file towards the tooth's point (away from the saw body). Watch the guide carefully so you can keep a consistent angle. Always count the number of strokes on each tooth - usually 5 or 6 strokes is enough. Then move on to the next tooth on the chain and stroke 5 or 6 times at the very same angle.

Repeat this pattern for all of the teeth that point in the same direction (every second tooth). Then flip the file guide around and repeat the process for every other alternating tooth pointing to the other side of the saw. Remember, it's very important that every tooth is sharpened the same amount or the saw will pull to one side when you try to cut.

After several sharpenings you will have worn the teeth down slightly. The depth gauges must be filed down so they are no higher than the tops of the teeth on the chain saw. Many people don't know about this step, but if you don't maintain the correct height of the depth guides your chain saw will not cut properly.

All you do is set the depth guide on the chain straddling the teeth and a small notch on the guide will allow you to remove the correct amount from each gauge. Filing the depth gauges is easier than sharpening the teeth because you're only trying to set the height of the depth gauges, not actually sharpen them.

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Eli and His Skeletool

Eli got a Leatherman Skeletool from Ski (his god-father) for his birthday. Ski got an identical one for himself & had both of their "zap codes" engraved on the blades. He is a Marine msgt in Iraq and hasn't received his yet so Eli made a video showing him how it works.

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spydieguys Uses FLITZ Polish

Polishing a dirty Spyderco EDC with FLITZ metal polish, and a quick look at a few items on the spydieguys web site. (spydieguys Vol. XXVIII 11122009.)

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Leatherman Charge Ti

Leatherman Charge Ti

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10 Power Tool Safety Tips

Power tools are indispensable for professionals and those who tackle DIY home improvement jobs. They are favored as they help users to save time and they also make the job easier. However, they need to be handled carefully otherwise they can lead to injury. Mishaps usually occur due to negligence, boredom, and overconfidence. By keeping the following 10 safety issues in mind, it is possible to work satisfactorily and safely with power tools.

1. Safety glasses: These prevent dust, debris, wood shavings, shards from fiberglass, etc from getting into the eyes. Safety glasses are one of the most basic pieces of safety equipment that must be used when working with power tools.

2. Protection for the ears: Power tools can generate a lot of noise, which may sound louder in the cloistered environment of a workshop; in order to minimize damage to the ears, it is advisable to wear earplugs.

3. Knowing the right tools for the job: It is important to know the right tools for the job in order to avoid injury to oneself and damage to the materials. To this end, it is advisable to thoroughly read the instruction manuals provided with the equipment and get familiar with the recommended safety precautions.

4. Correct method of using tools: Tools should not be carried by their cords; tools that are not in use should be disconnected; and while handling a tool connected to a power source, fingers should be kept away from the on/off switch.

5. The right clothes: Long hair should be tied and loose clothing should be avoided. Ideally, clothing that covers the entire body should be worn and heavy gloves should be used in order to avoid sharp implements and splinters from hurting the hands. Masks prevent inhalation of harmful minute particles of the material that is being worked upon. Steel-toed work boots and hard hats can also be worn.

6. Tool inspection: Power tools should not be employed in wet environments and should never be dipped in water; they should be checked periodically for exposed wiring, damaged plugs, and loose plug pins. Nicked cords can be taped but if a cut appears to be deep, a cord should be replaced. Tools that are damaged or those that sound and feel different when used should be checked and repaired.

7. Cleanliness in the work area: This should be maintained because accumulated dust particles in the air can ignite with a spark. Of course, flammable liquids should be kept covered and away from the place where power tools are being used. An uncluttered work area also makes it easy to maneuver the power tool; often distractions caused by a tangled cord can result in an accident.

8. Care with particular tools: Miter saws and table saws should be used with a quick-release clamp and a wood push-through, respectively. Extra care should be taken while using nail guns and power belt sanders.

9. Keep tools in place: Power tools should be returned to their cabinets after use to prevent them from being used by an unauthorized and incapable person.

10. Lighting: It is important to use proper lighting while working with power tools, particularly when working in the basement and garage where lighting may not be satisfactory.

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Leatherman Comparison Part2

Leatherman Comparison Part2

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11 Tips for Air Compressor Maintenance

Now that you've invested in an air compressor to run all of your air tools you're going to have to learn how to keep it up and running. Because the standard handyman's air compressors don't typically require daily upkeep, it's easy to forget about them and neglect their upkeep. This can be a costly oversight so it's vital for you to keep an eye on the following maintenance tips.

Maintenance Tip 1: Read and Follow Your Air Compressor's Manual

Nothing stops an air compressor faster than an owner who doesn't read the owner's manual. There's going to be some simple tips in there for you that will help you to get a nice long life out of your air compressor - simple stuff for you to do that you would never have thought to do unless you read it. Plus, if you don't follow the rules in your air compressor manual there's a chance that you'll void your warranty. That in itself should be enough of an incentive to read the "flipping" manual.

Maintenance Tip 2: Drain The Moisture From The Tanks

The receiver tank collects moisture from the air that it's compressing - especially if you live in a humid climate. Most tanks have a valve for draining this moisture that accumulates and it's up to you to make sure that these are drained regularly. Before draining the water you should be sure to release the air pressure from the tanks.

Maintenance Tip 3: Clean Intake Vents

If you force your air compressor to work too hard to intake air you're losing power on your compression. This will gradually degrade the quality of your tool. Be sure to keep your intake vent as clean as possible and check them regularly especially if you're working in a dusty or dirty environment.

Maintenance Tip 4: Tighten All Fasteners

Your air compressor's a running, vibrating engine and it will loosen its screws, nuts and bolts on a regular basis. Be sure to check these periodically and tighten them up if you find any that have jiggled loose.

Maintenance Tip 5: Check Hoses Regularly

Check all your hoses periodically as they are the veins of your air compressor. If they become cracked or corroded they could soon begin to leak and then put undue strain on the rest of your compressor's components. Be sure to check them and replace them if you find them cracked or damaged.

Maintenance Tip 6: Test the Safety Shutdown System

Your air compressor may have a built in safety shut down. The function of this system is to shut off your compressor if it's getting too hot, or if the engine's oil pressure is too low. This test will help you ensure a longer lasting compressor.

Maintenance Tip 7: Check and Change Air Filters As Needed

A filthy air filter is only hurting your air compressor by allowing dirty air from the outside in, plus forcing it to work harder to intake air. Check your filters regularly and change them if you notice a heavy build up of dust and dirt. Change every six months or so if you use it infrequently.

Maintenance Tip 8: Clean the Fuel Tank

As with any engine you need to periodically clean out the fuel tank to ensure optimal operating conditions. You should look to clean out the engine on your air compressor once every year or so to remove any residual build up from the fuel. This will preserve the life of your engine.

Maintenance Tip 9: Check and Change the Compressor Oil

If you're running a compressor that uses oil you should be checking it on a daily basis to make sure that your machine is topped off. Then, every 500-1000 hours of use you should be changing this oil to ensure maximum functioning of your air compressor.

Maintenance Tip 10: Change the Separator Element

The separator element prevents the excessive use of oil, but it has to be replace periodically. Keep your compressor in top condition by replacing the separator element every 1,000 hours of operation.

Maintenance Tip 11: Clean the Heat Exchangers

If your heat exchangers are dirty then they can't do their job, which is to reduce the operating temperatures of your air compressor. Clean them regularly to keep your operating temperatures down and increase the life span of your air compressor.

By following the tips above you'll ensure a nice long life for your air compressor, plus the jobs that you use it for will go faster and more productively. A well maintained air compressor is a wonderful machine for any job site or workshop, so keep yours running smoothly.

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Leatherman Skeletool demo video

New product from famous Leatherman company : Skeletool Weights only 140 gr !!! I'm selling such tools on ebay.co.uk worldwide Contact me if interested !

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Poulan Chainsaws - An Honest Review

Reviewing chainsaws is not an easy task given the team-like following these powerful machines have got.

The Poulan chainsaws range have generally been around the mark when reviews are posted but toppling big names such as Stihl and Husqvarna from their perches is not an easy thing to do.

The plus for Poulan fans is they are actually owned by Husqvarna and it's said they share technologies. On the downside though, this may have impacted the prominence of Poulan as a major player in the chainsaw market.

Poulan probably haven't done themselves many favors when one scans the reviews on some of their chainsaws online. Yes, they produce excellent tools for the handyman and tradesman however, have they "dropped the ball a little" on some of the saws?

Some Reviews Too Harsh?

I tend to think some of the reviews are a little harsh. As we mentioned earlier, chainsaw brands have their band of loyal followers and it's a little like motor cars; until your manufacturer produces something totally unreliable then it's going to take a lot to get someone to switch brands.

The beauty about Poulan chainsaws is you are not "paying and arm and a leg" for them. That's probably not a good description to make given what a chainsaw can do but the truth is, they are hard to beat for value.

Value For Money Products

In a society where more and more new chainsaw owners are being born daily with the homeowner boom, Poulan have come to the party with machines designed to suit novice users looking for a lightweight design chainsaw which packs plenty of power.

A homeowner, unlike a pro or semi pro won't be using their machine on a regular basis so spending a fortune on a chainsaw doesn't make sense.

Spending between $100-$200 for a chainsaw which can handle lightweight to medium tasks is good shopping in anyone's language. The only question then is whether one can get satisfactory back-up support when needed. This is always a major issue when buying chainsaws and is drummed home regularly to first-time users.

It remains to be seen how competitive Poulan chainsaws remain in today's market but if you're looking for a value saw, then it's a good starting place.

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Elmer's Glue

The first white glue to be used was made and marketed by Borden. It was in the form of glass bottles having the wooden sticks used in ice creams. It had the trade name "Cascorez Glue". It was later renamed as Elmer's Glue. The company has been manufacturing different glues since 1947. It created a name for itself from these glues. Its headquarters are located in Columbus Ohio. Its products are found in many countries.

The manufacturers of Elmer's glue make glues for household and commercial basis. Glue sticks and glue bottles can be used at home. Glue sticks consist of a solid material that can be dragged on the area you want it to be. Glue bottles are made to allow application on the right place. The bottle type is stronger than the sticks. They are used by children for craft work. The company also makes colors for drawing.

For commercial use, the company makes wood glue. This is useful in repairing furniture. The ultimate glues are useful when a strong bond is needed. The ultimate glues are washable. The nano glues can also be used for strong bonds. The floor adhesive is useful for attaching floor tiles. The adhesive is water resistant and does not decompose.

Aerosol adhesives are also manufactured by the company that makes Elmer's glue. This type can be sprayed on walls and furniture and even plastics. The adhesive dries very fast. It is filled into containers under high pressures. This allows it to be sprayed over a large distance. It has sufficient strength that allows items to be fixed on foam boards. The glues are environmentally safe.

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Review: Leatherman Skeletool CX

A review of the Carbon Fiber Skeletool CX multitool by Leatherman. This is my Every Day Carry (EDC) knife/multitool.

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First Look Leatherman Skeletool

The Leatherman Skeletool from www.swissknifeshop.com is lightweight, compact, and a handy tool.

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A List of Basic Hand Tools For Setting Up Shop

Below I recommend several brands of tools. These are tools I own and have a lot of experience with or have used in the past and like. This doesn't mean that these brands are the only ones out there or are even the best. Ask around and find out what other people like and use. Ultimately you have to make your own decision on which tools are best for you and how you work.

Woodworking covers so many facets that it's difficult to come up with a tool list that covers the needs of every woodworker. Many tools are used for a very specific task, while others are more general tools that you find yourself using for most projects. The latter is what I'll concentrate on in this article. Just keep in mind that if you want to learn how to make guitars (a Luther), or build a canoe, etc...there will definitely be tools that you will need that won't be on this list. This is just to get you started. I've been working wood for over 10 years and trust me there are still many tools I would love to have. But just like I did you start with the basics and buy other tools as you find a need for them.

Hand Tools

Machine tools: screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, set to wrenches, pliers, crescent wrench. These are things that most already have around the house, but it definitely doesn't hurt to have a set of these tools that are dedicated just to your shop so you don't have to hunt all over the house when you need a Phillips screwdriver. These can all be picked up at your local hardware store.

Set of bench chisels: 1/4" to 1". I've used a set of Marples chisels for years. Irwin has bought them so they may show up under their name now. The full set costs around $50.00 Cheaper chisels just won't hold an edge (meaning they dull too easily). The Marple chisels hold an edge OK. Home Depot and Lowes used to carry them but they're not showing up on their websites now. Amazon.com has them for $50

Handplanes: A jack plane (sometimes referred to as a No. 5) and a low angle block plane. The jack plane gets it's name from being the "jack of all trades". It's a medium size plane and can be used for many tasks. I recommend buying a used one, specifically an old Stanley No. 5. Look at flea markets and garage sells or try eBay (this is where I got mine years ago). A block plane will be one of the most used tools in your shop, so buy a good one. If you can afford it Lie-Nielsen.com or Lee Valley.com both have excellent low angle blocks from $75 to $119 A cheaper alternative would be a Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block for around $40.

Handsaws: panel, or Japanese Ryoba and Dozuki. Western saws cut on the push stroke; Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke. My advice is to try out both and see which you like better. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Personally, I like the Japanese saws for most jobs, but I still like a western type saw for cutting dovetails. Lowes and Home Depot both carry Japanese saws. Another good place to look is Japanwoodworker.com

Layout tools:tape measure, small and large size try squares, marking gauge, pencil compass, 6" and 12" rulers, bevel gauge, combination square.

Hammer: 16oz standard and a wooden or dead-blowstyle mallet for working with chisels and other tools.

Card scraper: an inexpensive tool that is indispensable in the shop (especially if you dislike sanding). These tools can take extremely thin shavings of wood and leave a very smooth surface. They can be tricky to sharpen though. We'll cover scrapers more in depth in a future article.

Rasps: a coarse and fine cabinetmaker's style. These are used to shape wood especially table legs.

There's my list of basic hand tools to get you started. Some, you will need from the very beginning. Some you can wait on. My advice is to figure out what you want to make with your woodworking and then start building. You'll figure out quickly the tools you really need and the ones you can wait to get.

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